Reportage

Le Pilgrimage: A Journey of Gravel, Grit, and Camaraderie

If first editions carry a sense of magic, second editions prove that an event has truly found its footing. The second edition of Le Pilgrimage, which sold out within 24 hours, attracted 40 riders and garnered attention from across the cycling community. With participants from the US, UK, Germany, Spain, France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and Russia, the event took on a truly international flavor. Simon Rosmolen offers a recap of the 2024 edition of Le Pilgrimage below…

The essence of Le Pilgrimage is more than just a cycling event; it’s a journey inspired by the legendary travels of Saint Roch, the patron saint of pilgrims. Known for his arduous pilgrimages through mountainous regions, Saint Roch faced many challenges, from harsh storms to treacherous paths, all while forging deep connections with locals and fellow travellers. The flavors of local cuisines, the camaraderie along the way, and the hope of a safe haven at the end of each day kept Saint Roch going on his pilgrimage. In much the same way, Le Pilgrimage offers its riders not just a physical challenge, but also the opportunity to connect with fellow pilgrims and experience the unique blend of adventure and comfort that defines the event.

Over three self-supported stages in the French and Italian Alps, riders covered a total distance of 461 kilometers and tackled almost 12,000 meters of elevation. Each stage looped back to the warm embrace of Chalet AlpeLune, the event’s base camp. After each gruelling stage, riders found not only shelter but also a sense of camaraderie, sharing delicious meals around the table each night.

STAGE 1: PAYS DES ÉCRINS

The event kicked off with Stage 1, featuring some of the most breathtaking climbs in the Écrins region, leading to the first Pilgrimage checkpoint at Cabane St. Jean. To reach this mountain hut hidden in the forest along the river, riders had to tackle a short but steep hike-a-bike section. The cabane, a mountain shelter for shepherds and trekkers, became a haven for the pilgrims, offering warmth, with a fireplace and a delicious cheese fondue on the stove – a well-deserved reward for their efforts. Spirits were high as everyone gathered back at base camp AlpeLune for a shared dinner, but the mood turned more serious as the weather forecast for Stage 2 was revealed.

STAGE 2: GALIBIER & VALLÉE DE LA CLARÉE

Day 2 brought a dramatic shift in conditions. Snow, sub-zero temperatures, and fierce winds were predicted for the summit of the Galibier. Local authorities had already closed the Col du Galibier due to early snowfall just 24 hours before. The route was scheduled to reopen, but the real challenge was further down after the climb of Col des Rochilles, leading into the Haute Vallée de la Clarée. This section, a few kilometres of hike-a-bike over rocky terrain, ended at Refuge des Drayeres, the second checkpoint.

The innkeeper had warned that the route was dangerously icy and that descending could be treacherous. A helicopter evacuation earlier that day confirmed the difficult conditions. The pilgrims faced a tough decision: take the risk and hope that the sun would melt the icy trails, or opt for a safer, alternative route – a difficult choice for those determined to follow the intended path.

In the early morning, half of the pilgrims climbed the old Galibier route, battling fierce winds, snow-covered paths, and sub-zero temperatures. As the sun finally broke through the clouds, the descent of the Galibier began. The question remained: would the sun’s warmth be enough to melt the ice on the hike-a-bike section to the refuge? Fortunately, upon arrival, most of the ice had melted and the path was clear, as if the prayers to Saint Roch had been answered. All riders made it across safely, finding refuge, hearty food, and a well-earned rest before heading back to Chalet AlpeLune.

STAGE 3: STRADA DELL’ASSIETTA, VAL DI SUSA & MONTE JAFFERAU

Stage 3, split across two days, offered riders a new adventure as they crossed the border into Italy. A steep climb over the Colle Begino brought the pilgrims into another world through quiet valleys and deserted villages in the Piemonte region, where time seemed to have stood still.

After a break for coffee in Sestriere, they tackled the iconic Strada dell’Assietta, a dusty alpine gravel road above 2,000 meters that winds through some of the most awe-inspiring vistas in the region. Clear skies made the views even more unforgettable – a high point, both literally and figuratively, of the pilgrimage. Following the descent of the Colle delle Finestre, some pilgrims spent the night in a hotel in Susa, while others bivouacked in the forests at the base of the next day’s climb to Caserma Grotte del Seguret, at over 2,200 meters.

At dawn, the final climb to the checkpoint awaited, following a steep military road to the old Italian barracks. Here, the pilgrims received their stamp but faced another dilemma: should they be tempted by the pilgrim’s treasure hidden in one of the tunnels of the fortress on Monte Jafferau, an extra 600-meter climb to a height of 2,800 meters, or descend to the refuge to finalize their journey? A dozen brave pilgrims took on the extra challenge and were rewarded with spectacular views and the remnants of the fort. Waiting for them was a treasure left by Saint Roch himself, offering local delicacies as a reward for their perseverance.

A long descent into the valley followed, with a final stop in Bardonecchia to sample some Italian delicacies before the return journey to the base camp. Once back, the pilgrims embraced at the finishers’ party in the chalet. As the fire crackled and new friendships were forged, every pilgrim could reflect on a journey filled with challenge, discovery, and camaraderie – one that will stay with them long after they’ve returned home.

The next Le Pilgrimage Gravel will take place in September 2025.

New for 2025

Le Pilgrimage Trail, a trail running journey into the French Alps. Le Pilgrimage Trail will take place in Puy-Saint-Vincent from July 1st to 6th, 2025. Our beautiful region is crisscrossed with ancient routes that are well worth exploring. This new adventure will take pilgrims on a trail-running journey through the Écrins landscape, with Hotel Saint Roch serving as a basecamp in between stages.